St. Pierre and Miquelon (SPM) are two tiny islands off the south west coast of Newfoundland that are part of France. It recently came into the public eye when the current U.S. administration levied the highest tariff on SPM tied with the African county of Lesotho. SPM makes up .01 of the GDP of France.  SPM was visited by indigenous people for over 5,000 years but in 1536 it was claimed by Jacques Cartier for France. Over the ensuing years there were battles between Great Britain and France, changing hands multiple times before being definitively restored to French control in 1816. Its allure was the vast abundance of Cod fishing in the North Atlantic and the ability to dry the cod and send it back to Europe. I became aware of this French archipelago almost 7 years ago when Anthony Bourdain came here in 2018 on his show Parts Unknown. It was also featured in Peaky Blinders final season in 2022. I knew I had to investigate this French gem off the coast of Newfoundland. 

There is a lot involved in planning a trip here as there is not a daily ferry from Newfoundland and I couldn’t find a flight from St. John’s that was available.  First, I secured an RV spot that was walking distance to the ferry at Fortune, NL. Next, I found a hotel room that matched the ferry availability. This involved making several international calls (calling Canada is free on my Verizon plan, not so SPM) and making sure my lodging was walking distance to the center of the town of St. Pierre. I could not understand the ferry booking site since it’s mostly in French although parts are translated so here again, I made an international call. So once all the parts of the journey were set up, I was set to travel by ferry to St. Pierre and back for a weekend stay. 

When we set sail from Fortune it was foggy.  The ferry was very nice with only a small deck towards the back of the deck to be outside.  It was 50 degrees and foggy so why be outside, right? When we arrived in SPM at the main wharf in St. Pierre (both the town and name of the island), we disembarked and went through customs where I happily received a stamp on my passport from France. St. Pierre is not exactly pedestrian friendly since the sidewalks (if there are any) are narrow and cut up and the streets are narrow as well. I stood in a marked crosswalk and the traffic continued (this I can assure you would never happen in Spain or Italy). There is a lawless feel to those behind the wheel.  I was glad I didn’t have far to walk to get to my bed and breakfast, Nuit Saint Pierre. Michel, my host, was there at the bottom of the stairs to greet me and shake my hand.  I would guess the B and B had about 7 guest rooms and a kitchen to share where Michel or his son would put out delicious French pastries, juice and coffee each morning. It was nice to have a private bath and a place to flop. Reservations are compulsory in SPM and Michel immediately reviewed everyone’s dinner reservations.  I did not have one because I don’t normally eat dinner. Michel took it upon himself to take me to a local market in his car.  That was a trip. I’m not sure if it was a one-way street but he squeezed through two cars facing opposite directions with maybe an inch on each side of the car. Michel knew everyone in the market and immediately took me to a refrigerator case that had cooked lobster in a container. I have to say that the lobster was one of the best I’ve ever had and I couldn’t believe I bought it at a market. 

One of the big highlights of my trip to SPM was going to the tiny island of lle aux Marins (Island of the Sailors). I went to the tourist information center to get ferry times. I planned it for the one morning when it wasn’t too windy and there would be sun.  SPM reminds me of San Francisco in the summer, cool and foggy most of the time. I traveled by boat on the ten-minute ride that I paid for in 7 Euros cash only. The island was settled in 1604 and once had a population of 700 which was almost all fishermen and their families.  There is a church and school.  It was largely abandoned in the 1960’s with only 20 inhabitants in the summer.  There is no electricity or running water or cars.  There are communal wheel barrels and wagons available for visitors and inhabitants to use. I immediately made a beeline to see the Transpacific wreckage which is a German Cargo ship that wrecked in 1972.  It’s a ghostly sight with its bow face-up on the beach. The island itself is stark with nary a tree or bush.  There are plots full of rocks which is where children were used to put out the cod to dry. There was an Andrew Wyeth vibe to the place with windswept austerity.  After exploring the island for an hour and a half,  I was picked up by the ferry and headed back to St. Pierre. 

Michel let me know that there was the blessing of the boats at the main church that morning which was a block from the B and B. Another guest and I walked over when the service headed outside.  It was an emotional experience as the priest and parishioners marched out to the wharf with models of boats that had been lost at sea. They sang beautiful hymns in French as they walked through the streets in their blue and white striped shirts. It was particularly poignant as a boat that was lost in 1962 call the Ravenel had just been found the month before. 15 St. Pierre fishermen had lost their lives and many of the family member were in the procession to leave flowers by the statue commemorating “our lost sailors”. We watched as the priest went to the wharf to bless the boats as dories with rowers, small crafts and fishing vessels honked their horns. It was a brilliant blue sky for all the pageantry. 

I headed back to Newfoundland on Sunday afternoon after spending three enchanting days on SPM. Anyone passing me on the street said “Bon jour” even the children getting out of school. I’m not sure any place could be more welcoming and I found myself here at the optimum time to truly experience a piece of France in North America.