I traveled to Venice at the end of 2024. I expected it to be interesting but I was beguiled. It is a world apart from anything else I have ever experienced. I arrived by plane and took a shuttle out to the main island of Lido di Venzia. I wasn’t in another vehicle for the rest of my stay. I’ve been to islands where there are no cars, Mackinaw Island in Michigan comes to mind, but there are golf carts and bicycles. In Venice the only way to get around is by boat or on foot. After a few days I realized that there is a peace that comes from not having to dodge taxis like I did in Rome. There is a quiet outside of the multitude of travelers dragging their luggage on the cobblestone streets.

Here are some the things that made Venice beguiling:
The Republic of Venice. Venice was founded in 687 as a Byzantine Territory and was a republic for over 1,100 years. There was no “Italy” (which was unified in 1861). Venice was ruled by 120 Doges over a 1,000. Doges were elected by the aristocracy and ruled for life. Each Doge lived in the Doge’s Palace which is right off St. Mark’s Square along the waterfront (but isn’t most of Venice waterfront?). I toured the palace and was struck by how the Doge lived in the same building as the courts, the parliamentary rooms and the prison. Eventually, they moved the prison across a canal which then created the “Bridge of Sighs” which is where the convicted prisoner would get one last glimpse of the outside world before being imprisoned. Apparently within the Palace and in other spots on the island there are Bocche dei Leone (Mouths of the Lion) where any citizen could slip a piece of paper into the mouth to denounce another citizen for illegal activity. It’s sort of a suggestion box on who to arrest. I found this to be fascinating.
It’s Swampland. The islands are built on wood pilings from trees in nearby Croatia (which at one point was part of the Republic). They are buried deep into the clay beneath the water and then topped with stone, brick and mortar. The bricks are made from nearby clay and the bricks themselves are smaller than bricks I’m familiar with in the US. It’s all an engineering marvel although I did get a little freakout when the floor of the Doge’s Palace actually moved. It was like walking on the Golden Gate Bridge, there is some give and flex to the larger buildings in Venice. There is also high tide and low time every six hours so the landscape and docks and boats are constantly rising and falling. The crazy thing is that it’s all very shallow and there are special channels made for the larger boats to go from one island to the next. So, it’s all really just floating.
The Labyrinth. The main island of Lido di Venzia is one massive labyrinth. If I did not have cell coverage and Google maps, I’m pretty sure I would still be lost down some nameless dark tunnel. As I’ve said, there is no getting around the island except on foot or by boat. If you are on foot there are at least five canals to traverse to get to any destination. It’s disorienting because most of the streets are sunless alleys and you can’t see any reference points (in NYC I think of the Empire State Building as a reference point). I rarely knew if I was headed east or west and I know that although I walked to Saint Mark’s Square four different times from my apartment, I never went the same way twice and was lost or off track each time. It was so comforting to see the same cannoli or mask shop to know that at least I had been there before. I also gave myself lots of time to arrive at a destination because I had to factor in getting lost. Regardless, being lost really makes me be present and pay attention to all available information.
Islands. There are 118 islands that make up Venice. Some are abandoned and small, some are privately owned and two of the most interesting are Murano and Burano. Murano is where they make handcrafted glass works. I saw a very interesting glass demonstration where a master glassworker made a glass horse in under two minutes. It was amazing to watch this artisan effortlessly create this masterpiece in minutes standing feet away from an 1800 F degree oven that runs 365 days a year. All he used was a big pair of black scissors and snipped, tugged and gently pulled forth a masterpiece.
Burano was a multitude of colorful buildings and a tower that is leaning precariously. Burano is a fishing village and the fisherman painted their houses different bright colors so that they could find their way home (adorable, no?). There is also the art of making intricate lace works that many of the women of the island are masters at. I saw table cloths that were so intricate it would take two women four months to create. Lace making is a dying art as the lace making school closed down in 1970. There are seven different types of lace styles and most women only knew one or two so it would take several women to complete even a small work of lace depending on the types needed. Truly beautiful works of art.
I ate on the island of Burano and I had the best risotto of my life there. I found food in all of Italy to be perfectly seasoned and impeccably prepared. Risotto is only creamy if you take time and care to develop the rice over a long period of stirring, the risotto I had was creamy (without cream) and perfectly seasoned.
I am so fortunate that I was able to visit Venice during beautiful weather. It was sunny each day and the highs were in the mid 40’s. Every time I went over the enormous Rialto Bridge (which spans the main waterway Grand Canal) the steps were not wet. It’s almost always crowded with tourists (like me) taking photos and stopping on the steps which makes navigating the steps more difficult. I can’t imagine if they were slick from rain. The fabulous weather also had the added benefit of beautiful pictures. Every corner and turn from the immense St. Mark’s Square to the tiny canals threading ancient buildings is photo worthy. I was absolutely beguiled







