rome – Workplace Navigator

I just got back from an eight city, seven-week escapade to Southern Europe. I’m moderately fluent in Spanish but besides that and a structured tour in Rome, I was on my own with my carry-on bag, backpack and my single pair of sneakers. The genesis of the trip was wanting to be in Rome on Christmas. Once I started booking things, it ended up that I was in Athens for Christmas and on a “Road Scholar” tour of Rome the week before. After talking to my world traveling friend Janine, I decided that Lisbon was the best place to start my trip as I recovered from jet lag. So, there it started, Lisbon, Rome, Athens and then on to Venice, Florence, Seville, Tenerife and finally Madrid. My route was set. Leading up to my departure, I started getting pangs in my stomach and started to wonder if I had an appendicitis or a burst gall bladder. I started to get nervous that I would land in Lisbon and then get rushed to a hospital. It was all for naught. I think it was just like getting nervous before a speech or running a marathon; it was all in my head. I decided it was psychosomatic and pushed through anyway. I’m so glad I did.

Here are the ways I did it scared:

Carry on only. I had to pack light. I had a trip a few weeks before to Seattle after my mother passed away and it was a test trip for packing extremely light. One pair (yes ONE) of shoes, three pairs of pants, one rain jacket, one puffy jacket with hood and 6 long sleeve shirts, 1 t-shirt and 10 pairs of underwear. I had booked apartments with washers except for the hotel in Rome. I purchased a carry-on suitcase that is both the lightest and fits in all European airlines and had two sturdy wheels (no spinners) so that I could drag it for miles on cobblestone streets. I always purchased early boarding so that I wouldn’t have issues with getting my bag on board. I have heard enough nightmare stories of lost luggage that I wanted to make sure I had what I needed once I got my feet on the ground. I could easily pick up my bag and put it in the overhead bin and my backpack was a lower profile so it could easily fit in under the seat in front of me. One snafu to carry on is that many of the airports I traveled to had a bus to the airplane which meant maneuvering the bags on the bus and up a set of stairs to the plane. All of this gave the assurance that I wouldn’t be stuck without my luggage.

Embrace the unknown. Each time I was going from one city to the next city I almost always ran into a cab or public transit dropping me off some half mile from my destination due to pedestrian only streets. I had not factored this in the first time it happened in Lisbon. By the time I got to Athens, I would set up the directions to the apartment by getting the walking directions from the airport in my map app. That way, when the cab dropped me off, I would start following the directions of my phone/watch. There were still snafus like the closed park in Venice that I had to circumnavigate and the sheer confusion of massive amounts of shoppers in Athens. I was always my most vulnerable when I had my luggage with me and just finding a space off to the side of a major thoroughfare full of people to get my bearings was intimidating. There is also the fact that elevators start on level 0. I went up and down elevators several times looking for what I though was the second floor on floor 1 instead of going all the way to floor 2. I really had to embrace just being lost and to be OK with circling the block several times to figure out where I was.

Figure out shopping. My first order of business once I found my apartment was figuring out what I was going to do for breakfast for the next day. I scoped out the coffee situation whether it was a Moka, electric kettle, Nespresso or Dolce Gusto machine. Off to the nearest Carrefour or Conad market I go with empty foldable backpack in hand. Most markets in Europe have self-checkout which is always interesting in a foreign language although sometimes you can select the British flag to get English. I never found oatmeal (Avena) until I arrived in Spain. In Portugal, Italy and Greece, I ended up buying Muesli (like granola) and milk. Fruits and vegetables almost always have a self-service station to weigh it. You can imagine how intimidating finding a fruit or vegetable is on a foreign scale system. I’m not sure I was accurate but I survived getting a scanner code and was able to check out. In addition, you scan or pay for each bag you use. I know some states have adopted this but taking along an empty backpack was handy. Every market payment system in Europe had a tap option so I didn’t have to figure out using what little Euros I had. Each time it was a new adventure. When I try to eat mostly vegetarian google translates by taking a picture of a product and was invaluable.

Travel on foot if possible. I ended up walking at least 5 miles a day during my travels. I never wore a headset. I try to be absolutely present and pay attention to the sounds and sights. It’s similar to walking a trail, I have to pay attention to each foot fall especially on narrow cobblestone streets. If something was wet, I’d walk slower. In retrospect the only place I saw folks with walkers and wheelchairs was in Madrid. The rest of the cities I traveled to had stairs, cobblestones and rarely an elevator. Complete handrails (from top to bottom of a set of stairs) was a rarity. When I solo travel, I really slow down and carefully move forward. I also got to experience each city from the graffiti to the smells of roasting chestnuts to the sound of church bells. Each time I was in a precarious situation I would think about how it could be worse, like climbing up to the Acropolis, well at least it’s not raining and it’s only 60 degrees. Amongst the throngs the week before Christmas at the base of the Spanish Steps in Rome, I thought, at least I’m not shopping or trying to get a cab. Being on foot makes me be present and appreciate each moment.

Each time I plan my travel adventures; it feels like some long-lost dream until it’s behind me. I put a plan together and hope it all works out and figure if it doesn’t, I’ll just stay home. Fear is a fickle thing cropping up at inopportune times and I try to remember to bring curiosity and optimism. Mostly, I’m just grateful to have the opportunity to work remotely, see the world and do it scared.

I went on a tour of Rome in December of 2024. I normally travel on my own staying at rented apartments and figuring it out as I go. I went on a Road Scholar tour for seven days in the Eternal City and it was educational and well-paced. When I first landed at the Rome airport, I needed to freshen up. I was really impressed with the bathrooms. They were super modern. When you entered there was a lit number indicating how many unisex stalls were available. Each stall that is available has a green light indicating it’s free, you wave your hand and the door slides open to a private stall with toilet and sink. You wave your hand to close and then again to lock it. All of it was touchless and hands-free. Simply amazing.

We all stayed at the Hotel Dei Mellini which was a small hotel along the Tiber River near the shopping district of Prati. There were loads of restaurants and mostly high-end shops. For most communal dinners we could walk to a local restaurant and we were invariably the first group there at 7 PM. The restaurant would be full by the time we left at 9 PM. Our group totaled twenty folks all over 60 from various parts of the United States. Our fearless leader, Bruna, did a great job of keeping track of us all as we navigated the ancient streets of Rome. The term we all learned almost immediately was finding “Zebras” or the marked crosswalks. Bruna explained that if there was a Zebra and no traffic light that we (the pedestrians) had the right of way. She frequently, and bravely, walked out into traffic several times stopping motorcycles and taxis to let us cross a street on a zebra crosswalk. I soon learned that to get around I had to be acutely aware of where the “Zebras” were to find the best way to my destination. There is no telling where a Zebra might be placed, sometimes it’s in the middle of the block, sometimes I had to travel a block out of my way in order to find a Zebra to get to my destination. When in Rome on foot, follow the Zebras.

Teatro di Marcello with three layers of lasagna from across 2000 years, one built on top of the other.

Our first day in Rome was spent at the Capitoline Museum which sits atop “Capitoline Hill”. The palazzo in front of the museum was designed by Michelangelo in 1536. It contains a treasure trove of sculptures countless busts of the over 80 emperors who ruled Rome. There is a bronze sculpture of a she-wolf nursing twins Romulus and Remus which is the origin story of Rome. There several versions of the story but Romulus is the victor and he founds Rome in 753 BC. In addition, there is an equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius from 173 AD and parts of the Colossus of Constantine including the head and a foot (the foot alone was 6 feet long) of Roman emperor Constantine the Great. The real secret to the Capitoline Museum is the vantage point to see all of the Roman Forum which is centuries of various ruins dating back to Julius Caesar and the 7th century BC. The Pantheon is a marvel of a structure that was built in 609 AD on a site that was a temple during the reign of Augustus (27 BC- 14 AD). It is an engineering masterpiece and stands today as it did in 609 AD with it’s large circular dome and 30 ft. oculus or hole in the center of the Rotunda. So, when it rains, the water falls through the oculus and down to the floor where drains sweep the water away. It’s simply amazing.

We went to the Colosseum and Roman Forum the next day. The Colosseum was originally named the Flavian Amphitheater for the emperors of the Flavian dynasty who ruled 69 – 81 AD and built the Colosseum. It held 50,000 to 80,000 spectators. Our guide said that 10,000 exotic animals from Africa and 5,000 gladiators and slaves were killed here for sport in a 90-day period. They have recreated one of the trap doors from which an animal would be transported up to the arena. It has endured a fire and an earthquake in 1349. It has been torn apart and picked over to build other structures in Rome. There are thousands of pot marks that were left behind from iron clamps that held the stones together. As we walked through the Forum, we kept hearing about recycling and how one marble pillar from one structure was recycled into another structure some 3 centuries later. Limestone from the Colosseum was used in a church 200 years later. When we walked through the Forum, through the Arches and various structures left behind from years of emperors, popes and dictators, we walked on black basalt. As we stood below the Arch of Titus, there are the original black rocks that Julius Caesar walked upon some two thousand years ago. In the middle of this bustling city just yards from the Colosseum. Rome is deep in history.

Our guides were constantly talking about recycling and the Teatro di Marcello which is a great example of lasagna or layering. It started construction under Julius Caesar in 17 BC. First it was a theater until the 4th century, then it was used as a fortress in the Middle Ages, then in the 16th century it was a residence for Orsini which was built on top of the original ruins, by the 19th century apartments were built above the lower floors. You can plainly see from the side that there are 3 distinct layers from 2000 years of existence for various purposes. Some very impressive lasagna!

Vatican City is the city state that sits in the center of Rome. It houses the pope, St. Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel. Throughout our travels there are countless buildings, monuments and statues marked clearly with whichever pope had paid for the monument. Since there have been over 280 popes, there are A LOT of monuments and A LOT of lavish, opulent works of art and they are housed in the Vatican Museum and the rest of Vatican City. We were fortunate to receive a one-hour class on the Sistine Chapel before entering this remarkable space whose ceiling and final judgement were painted by a captive Michelangelo. The figures appear 3D in this hallowed space. St. Peter’s Basilica is the largest church in the world and I would bet that 30% of it is covered in gold. The guide told us as we entered this cavernous space that if it looks gold, it is gold. I was most overwhelmed by the Vatican Museum which is basically the opulent attic for 2000 years of popes acquiring or demanding various works of priceless art. One of the hallways we walked down was three football fields long covered from floor to ceiling with artwork and tapestries.

I found Rome to be chaotic, energetic and wondrous. The history of dictators, emperors and popes all ruling this city along the Tiber River. It went from 2 million people to 20,000 people between the rise and fall of the Roman Empire. Those that are still here are vibrant, resilient, welcoming people. All roads lead to Rome and I’m so glad I was able to experience its deep history, wondrous art and irresistible food.