I have discovered in recent years that Afternoon Tea is a delightful way to explore different cultures and customs wherever I might be.  My first Afternoon Tea took place at the venerable Empress Hotel in Victoria back in the early 2000’s.  I don’t think I realized how prevalent this wonderful way to experience food, drink and ambiance is a marvelous custom for the reasonable hours of early afternoon.  

Let’s first get our terms correct.  Cream Tea is what you see all over the United Kingdom in cafes and coffee bars and is essentially a pot of tea, scones, clotted cream (sounds gross but is exceptionally delicious) and preserves (and sometime lemon curd). Afternoon Tea (also called Low Tea) is served in the late afternoon often on low tables (hence low tea).  There is a pot of tea and the food is often served on a three-tier tray.   The lowest tier has scones, clotted cream and preserves, the middle tier has several finger sandwiches and the top tier has bite size desserts.  A Royal Tea (or Champagne Tea) it’s basically the same as Afternoon Tea except there is the addition of champagne or sherry and sometimes a fourth course.  Celebration Tea is the Royal Tea with the addition of a cake (hence the celebration).  High Tea (sometimes known as Meat Tea) is a heartier meal including tea, meat, cheese, breads and vegetables and there is always a fork, knife and spoon instead of finger foods.  All of the teas that I enjoyed in the last year were Afternoon Teas although most were served on high tables. 

Here are the 5 Afternoon Teas that I explored over the last 6 months:

Edinburgh Castle.  I visited Scotland in March and as I toured the Edinburgh Castle, I noticed a sign for Afternoon Tea next to the castle.  It was a drizzly day a top the ancient, massive Castle Rock (an extinct volcano) upon which this fortress was built in 1103.  At one in the afternoon, I was surprised that there wasn’t a line for tea on top of one of the biggest tourist attractions in Europe, I jumped at the chance. I had a table next to a window to look at the capital of Edinburgh below and although the ambiance was spare without table clothes or music, the food was lovely with the sandwich tier being the most interesting because they weren’t cut finger sandwiches but a tiny bun filled with egg salad and pumpernickel topped with sour cream and smoked salmon as well as a cheese puff. Perhaps it was the rainy day outside but the Earl Grey Tea was excellent. I highly recommend the experience.  And I always get to say that I had tea at the castle!

Spinnaker Tower. I had no idea that this 170-meter-high observation tower existed until I was walking around Portsmouth, England.  As I explored the coast along the English Channel, I noticed this tall tower and wondered what it was.  Of course, they have an observation deck and, to my surprise, offered Afternoon Tea (although I wanted to call it HIGH tea) at the Cafe in the Clouds.  I made a reservation and went the next day.  I had a picture-perfect day to be a top the tower and my table was right next to the glass window overlooking Portsmouth and Southampton ports.  Just going up the tower was worth the trip and the tea was a pleasant way to spend time sitting looking out at the activity below and a far. The quality wasn’t that of Edinburgh but then the kitchen is 170 feet below and you have to order a day ahead. It’s possible just to order a drink instead of Afternoon Tea, so I might opt for that next time.  Go for the view.

A.C. Perch’s Tea Room. My dear friend, Alison, brought me to this gem of a tea shop that’s been in business since 1835 in downtown Copenhagen. The entrance is on the second floor off an alley way, so I felt like there was no way it was open. We were rewarded on the second-floor landing with an opening for tea. Its ambiance is that of calm and precision.  They have special water spigots that deliver the perfect temperature of water for each pot of tea.  The menu of teas is mind boggling with several different types of Earl Grey as well as hundreds of others from across the world. This is the place for tea and the food was excellent.  They had the scones with clotted cream, preserves and lemon curd as well as finger sandwiches with egg salad and smoked salmon.  The highlight was the caramel macaron.  I would have bought a box of them as they were not super sweet but a lovely velvety caramel flavor.  Of course, the highlight was enjoying it all with a lifelong friend who has made Denmark her home.  If you are in Copenhagen, take the risk and find this hidden gem.

The Empress.  I have to say the The Empress has been my standard of Afternoon Tea since first going there in the early 2000’s with my then boyfriend, David. When I set up my trip to Victoria, Canada following my daughter’s wedding in Sequim, Washington, I knew I was going to be going back to the Empress for Afternoon Tea.  This Grand Hotel sits across from the inner harbor of Victoria and was awash with all manner of flowers in bloom in mid-July.  It’s been serving afternoon tea for as long as it has been open since the early 1900’s.  I was fortunate to be seated in a leather wingback chair next to a low table.  The piano was playing behind me.  The China, all the accoutrements, everything was perfection.  They even set a tea timer on the table so that you can remove the tea bag when the tea is done to your liking (light, medium or strong).  The tea pot is even on a tea candle to keep it warm.  The desserts in particular were each meticulously decorated. This is a must visit Tea if you are in Victoria.

Washington Duke Inn.  This hotel is on the Duke University Campus.  I had been here before when my daughter was a student at Duke.  They only serve afternoon tea Friday through Sunday and you have to call to make a reservation.  So, you can’t just drop by.  I have to say it’s a lovely space that overlooks the golf course and I was disappointed that there wasn’t the classic three tier tray.  All the food was on a large place and there was clotted cream and lemon curd served. The food itself was the highlight because there was a deviled egg, a small tartlet filled with Pico de Gallo and  slice of cheese.  There were two more unusual sandwiches, one of pimento cheese and sliced apple with cheese.  A southern spin on a British tradition.

Each Tea that I was able to attend and experience had its merits and I’d go back to each one again. I’ll treasure the tea with my friend Alison, up the back staircase, Perch’s Tea Room, the most.  Experiencing tea all over the world is a terrific was to explore but tea with a friend is priceless.